I’ve been knitting socks for upwards of +5 years now. I love them, but I remember all too well the confusion I had upon embarking on my very first pair. I remember watching a tutorial on how to knit socks, and while I could follow the instructions very well, I had SO many questions. Like:
-Why THAT number of stitches?
-Why a heel flap?
-How long does a heel flap have to be?
-How many stitches does the heel turn have to happen across?
-How do you know when to start decreasing for the toe?
I got the answer to these questions through trial and error and many pairs of socks (some that fit great, others, not so much). In this post I’d like to share with you an OVERVIEW of Sock Construction, giving you the answers I spent so long trying to decipher.
Whether you are new to sock knitting or experienced, I hope this helps you!
VIDEO LINK:
https://youtu.be/YZJyp6DW-Wk
Question #1: Why THAT number of stitches?
When learning to knit socks, the most common combination of stitches with fingering weight yarn are 56, 64, and 72. The simplest answer to why those stitch counts is that those numbers at the standard sock gauge (aprox. 8 stitches per inch) gets the standard foot circumferences 7, 8, and 9 inches. Of course, just like with sweaters and hats, you can play with your gauge and get different measurements. A lot of people find they like a 60 stitch sock.
If the numbers 7, 8 , and 9 inches sound small to you, it’s important to remember that socks are made with negative ease. That means that they will measure smaller than the circumference they are meant to fit. For instance, my foot at the widest point measures about 9.5 inches, and I always make a 64 stitch (8 inch) sock.
Again, just like any knitting project, it’s okay to play with the gauge to get a fit and fabric that suits you, but that’s why those stitch counts are so common.
Question #2: Why a heel flap?
Ah, the heel flap and gusset, a construction beloved by so many sock knitters. I’ll be honest, while I admire their atheistic, the process of making a heel flap and gusset is not enjoyable to me, and it doesn’t fit my foot. Regardless, that was the first heel I made because it was so common and the only one I knew of. And though I completed it successfully enough for my first try, I spent a long time wondering…
What’s the point?
Why does a sock need a heel flap?
The answer; it adds depth!
The trickiest part of knitting a sock is the heel, where you literally change the direction of your knitting, turning the corner so that you can go from knitting leg to knitting foot. A heel flap is a little hallway that helps you turn that corner, while also providing a comfy space for the back of your heel.
Makes sense, and leads us into my next question:
Question #3: How long does a heel flap have to be?
The quickest answer; however long you want.
A heel happens over exactly half of the number of stitches on the sock. So if you’re knitting a 56 stitch sock, your heel turn is going to happen over 28 stitches because 56/2=28. Now, for the traditional heel flap and gusset, the number of heel flap rows is going to equal half of your heel stitch count:
28/2=14
If you were knitting a 64 stitch sock, you would work your heel over half of those stitches (64/2=32), and your heel flap would be worked for half of that stitch count in rows; 32/2=16. Any guesses on how long the heel flap will be worked for the 72 stitch sock?
That’s right: 18 (72/2=36; 36/2=18).
Now, it’s important to remember these are standards, but not all feet are created the same. Some sock knitters find these numbers a perfect fit, others tweak them to make their heel flaps shorter or longer, or do away with them all together. Everyone’s feet are different and it takes trial and error to get a sock, especially a sock heel, to fit well. But that’s why there are so many different sock patterns and different heels to try!
Question #4: How many stitches does the heel turn have to happen across
The answer to this question is a little bit more complicated.
You see, there are SO MANY different types of heels and heel turns you could do. Short row, afterthought, French Heel, Fish Lips Kiss- the list goes on and on. It all depends on how you are shaping your heel and the fit you are going for.
Usually, the goal of a heel is at its deepest point to be aprox. 1/3 of your heel stitch count. For instance, with say, an afterthought heel, you will decrease down to 12 stitches before finishing your heel for the stitch counts 56, 64, and 72 (which divided by 2= 28, 32, 36).
Again, it all depends on your heel method, and each method has different pros and cons and a good pattern will spell everything out for you to understand the heel you are doing. But the aprox 1/3 rule is great when trying a stitch count that perhaps isn’t included in the pattern, like the less common 60 stitch sock.
Question #5: When do you start to decrease for the toe?
The easy answer: when you try your sock on, and it covers your little toe.
This is the measuring tool I used for YEARS. It works great if you are doing a standard toe pattern. With rounded toe patterns, trying the sock on until it covers the knuckle on your big toe is also a great hack.
But if you want to be more precise, or you are making socks as a gift and can’t secretly try on the sock in the receipt’s sleep, here’s a more accurate way:
Measure your foot (from heel to toe) and subtract your toe measurement. How long your toe in knitting is will depend on what type of toe you do, but I find 2 inches to be a safe guess for adult sizes (1-1.5 inches for kids). Subtract 2 inches from your foot measurement, and multiple that number by your round gauge (how many rounds do you have to knit to equal 1 inch in knitting? That’s your round gauge).
Let’s say the person I’m making a sock for is a woman who wears a US 7. I can google the measurements for that (about 9 inches). My round gauge is 8 rounds equals 1 inch. So-
9-2= 7
7 x 8 = 56
I have to knit 56 rounds on the foot before my toe decreases.
Note: I personally don’t count the heel in my foot rounds, but again, sock knitting is a science tailored to you and your feet, so you decide whether or not to include the heel measurements in your finally round tally. This is just a starting point.
And that concludes 5 Sock Questions I Have! Did you find this helpful? Be sure to share it on instagram so other sock knitters can find it, as well as check out the video on YouTube.
Are you looking for a sock knitting pattern? My Short Cut Heel is a heel construction that requires No Short Rows. It’s easy, you don’t lose your place in the work, and you can do it in both garter and stockinette! Both the cuff down and toe up versions come with complete video tutorials. Check them out in my Ravelry Shop!
Ravelry Link:
